It takes that long because the vent is restricted, not because the dryer is failing. Lint builds up in the duct over years, and a long or crushed vent run makes it worse, so the moist air cannot leave and the clothes stay damp. Clearing the vent restores normal drying times on a machine that needs nothing else done to it.

Yes, we do, and on most no-heat and slow-drying calls it is part of the diagnosis. A clogged vent is also the leading cause of dryer fires, so it is worth clearing on a schedule rather than after something goes wrong. We check the full run from the machine to the outside wall.

Yes, we do. Gas dryers fail differently from electric ones, usually at the igniter, the flame sensor, or the gas valve coils rather than a heating element. We disconnect and reconnect the dryer at the appliance connector as part of the repair.

Not necessarily, and this is worth checking before you call. European models from Bosch, Miele, and Thermador dry by condensation instead of a heating element, so plastics stay damp by design and the machines are working as intended. If your unit has a heated dry setting and dishes are still soaking, then the element, the vent, or the rinse aid dispenser has failed, and we repair it.

No, stop it now and unplug it or shut off the gas. That smell means lint has reached the heating element or is packed into the duct, and it is the single most dangerous fault this appliance has. Book a same-day visit and leave the machine off until we have looked at it.

Yes, it usually is. No heat almost always comes down to a heating element, an igniter, a thermal fuse, or a thermostat, and all of them are inexpensive parts fitted the same visit. A blown thermal fuse also points back to a blocked vent, so we check the airflow before returning the machine to service.