It takes longer because the igniter or the bake element is wearing out, not because the oven is old. A weak igniter still glows but no longer opens the gas valve quickly, and a failing element heats at a fraction of its rated output. Both are standard parts, and both get worse until they stop entirely.

Yes, it can. Most ovens can be recalibrated through the control panel, and when the offset is larger than that, the cause is a temperature sensor that has drifted. Replacing the sensor brings the oven back to the setting on the dial.

Yes, it can be. Self-clean runs at around 900°F, and that heat regularly takes out thermal fuses, door lock motors, and control boards. If you use it, run it well before you need the oven and never the day before a holiday. Wiping the cavity by hand is safer for the appliance.

Yes, we can. Let the oven cool completely first, since the lock stays engaged until the cavity drops below its safety threshold. If it is still shut after that, the lock motor or the control board has failed, and we replace it on the visit.

Yes, we do. We pull the unit from the cabinetry to reach the components behind it and reinstall it without marking the surrounding millwork. Double ovens often have one working cavity and one dead one, and the fault is usually isolated to a single element, sensor, or relay.

Yes, we do. Steam and combi units from Miele, Wolf, Gaggenau, and Thermador add water lines, pumps, and steam generators to a regular oven, and those parts fail more often than the heating side does. Scale from New York tap water is the usual culprit.